Guinea Pig (Cavy) Care
Choosing a Cavy
When choosing a cavy ( also known as a guinea pig) one must consider the following:
health, breed, age,
and where to purchase or adopt your cavy.
Obviously, it goes without saying that health is the most important of these
aforementioned factors. It is not incredibly difficult to choose a healthy cavy. First,
note the current living conditions it is in now. Is it a clean environment? Does it have
food and water? Is the living space cramped? Overall, does the environment in which the
cavy is kept seem satisfactory to you? If you answered no to most of these questions, then
perhaps you should move on to another breeder or pet shop. If you decide to take a cavy
home that currently lives in an unsatisfactory environment, be prepared to take any
measures needed if the cavy should fall ill, even if it is not showing signs of illness
now (it could show up later). Also, make sure to quarantine the cavy (as with all cavies
that you bring home) away from any others you already have for at least a month. Second,
study the cavy in its activities. They should not have any signs of impediment. Their eyes
should be round and clear with no traces of crust. The nose should be dry without any form
of swelling or mucous. The ears should be tiny and slightly crinkled. Make sure that the
upper jaw fits neatly over the lower jaw and that the teeth align properly. There should
be no bald spots on the body or any type of mite or flea. Check the fur to make sure it is
clean. The legs should be small with four toes on the front feet and three on the back.
Sometimes, a fourth toe is found on the cavy's back feet - this will not impede the cavy
what-so-ever. The anal region should be clean with no evidence of staining or dried fecal
matter around the vent. The pellets should be firm and not liquid, runny, or
bloodstained.
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Age
Cavies are weaned from their mother about the age of 4-5 weeks. This is the ideal time to
obtain them in order to make them really nice friendly pets. If they are a week or two
older, this is still not a problem, except that they will be a little bit more used to
their current surroundings. It is also very possible to tame an older cavy as well.
Basically, the older they are, the more time you have to spend with them to tame
them.
Breed
A first time owner should look to own a self or an Abyssinian. They have short manageable
coats that require little to no attention at all. The long-haired varieties, such as the
Silkie or the Peruvian, need to be brushed at least once a day as their coat may grow to
be 20 inches long. Otherwise, all cavies have the same general temperament, although each
personality will differ. If you plan on spending ample time with your cavy companion then
the cavy should be happy by itself, but cavies are VERY social creatures so if you are
going to be at school or at work all day, it might be best to purchase two. Two sows will
get along fine and in my experience, two boars will get along well as long as they never
come in contact with a female. A sow and a boar will get along well, also.
Where to buy
Pet shops often have a wide variety of cavies at reasonable prices. Usually, these cavies
are not purebred, but they still make great pets and should be healthy. If you are looking
for a particular breed, you may want to contact a breeder. They are also reasonably
priced. The best way to contact a breeder is at a local show, a local cavy club, or on the
internet.
Cavy Breeds
Here I have listed a
majority of the Cavy Breeds. I will be adding more as I find them!!!
Abyssinian
An Abyssinian's fur is short and course. Its most notable trait are the whorls or rosettes found all over the body. An ideal Abyssinian to show would be one with eight whorls placed evenly (two on face, two on shoulders, two on side, two on hips) along its body.
Alpaka
An Alpaka is the result of breeding a Rex and a Peruvian. It is a long haired breed with two whorls - one placed on each back hip.
American Crested
These are short hair breeds with a single whorl, or crest, on the top of the head. This breed is always one color except for the crest on its head which will always be white. If any other color markings are found on this breed, they are not suitable for showing.
Coronet
This breed is the result of breeding a Sheltie and a Crested. Coronets have long hair, a crest on the head, and the fur parts straight down the center of the back.
Dutch
Dutch The Dutch is a two-tone breed. It will always have only two colors...the darker color (which could be black or brown) will always be displayed as the mask and hind coloring. The blaze and middle body coloring will always be white.
American Shorthair
The American Shorthair breed has no whorls or crests on its body. The American Shorthair can have many different varieties such as Himalayan (described below), self (one color), TSW (Tortoishell and White), etc.
English Rex
This breed has short curly hair. Many possible varieties.
Himalayan
The Himalayan isn't necessarily a breed, but rather a variety. A Himalayan has dark smudge-like markings on its nose, feet, and ears, which are called points. The darker the points, the greater the show quality. The Himalayan variety can show up in such breeds as Coronets, American Shorthair, Crested, Peruvians, and others. At this time, only American Shorthair Himalayans are suitable for showing. A Show Quality Himalayan is the result of crossbreeding a Chocolate Self American Shorthair Male with a Himalayan American Shorthair Female.
Marino
The Marino has long curly hair with a rosette on the head. The Marino is the result of a Rex and a Coronet.
Peruvian
The Peruvian breed has long hair with 3 whorls, or rosettes, on the body. These rosettes are distributed as follows: 1 on each hip and 1 on the head.
Satin
A Satin, much like the Himalayan, is not a breed but a variety. Satins can be traits of all guinea pig breeds. The hair of Satins is fine, shiny, and literally feels like satin to the touch.
Sheltie
A Sheltie has long hair without any whorls, rosettes, or crests on the body.
Teddy
A Teddy has short curly fur, much like the Rex
Importance of Vitamin C for the Cavy
Out of all the things we provide for our cavies, Vitamin C should be right up there next to love. Cavies cannot produce Vitamin C within their bodies. If they are not fed supplements, they will get scurvy and possibly die if they are not taken care of fast! Scurvy is an illness caused by a Vitamin C deficiency, or lack of Vitamin C in the body. I have provided some information about what happens when a cavy is not given Vitamin C, the symptoms of scurvy, and a few other things. If you have any questions or comments please email me at dworkin@bellsouth.net.
When the cavy is fed a diet lacking Vitamin C, but nutritionally sufficient in all other
nutrients, it will continue to grow normally for 9-10 days as the animal uses up all the
Vitamin C already present within its body. Around the 14th day of this scurbogenic (able
to induce scurvy) diet , older cavies will begin losing weight rapidly. Younger cavies
will start the weight loss around day 9. On day 24 their weight drops to that of a very
young cavy and by day 27 cavies were losing more weight, exhibiting classical examples of
scurvy, and dying spontaneously.
SCURVY SYMPTOMS:
Rough and poor coat condition.
Unwillingness to move characterized by stiff joints and limbs. Hopping when prodded into
moving.
Tenderness to touch
Extremely poor flesh condition
A stance with the feet tucked under the animal as if unable to support its own body
weight.
How much Vitamin C is necessary to prevent scurvy? A minimum daily requirement of 1 mg per
100 grams of body weight is necessary to prevent scurvy and keep your cavy in good
condition.
Examples of Food Containing Vitamin C
Whole Guavas
Parsley
Turnip Greens
Brussel Sprouts
Kale Leaves with Stems
Broccoli
Curly Dock
Cauliflower
Lemon with Peel
Oranges
Mustard Greens
Spinach
Cabbage
Dandelion Greens
Turnips w/o greens
Celery
Carrots
Before you bring
that cute little cavy home....
Consider This!
This section is not meant to dissuade your from getting a guinea pig at all, it is merely
to make you think. So many people adopt or buy a guinea pig not realizing the
responsibilities that come with it! These cavies end up in shelters, back in pet stores,
or even dead! Please take the following into consideration:
A guinea pig can live as long as 8-10 years. Are you ready for that kind of
commitment?
A guinea pig needs a
cage, which can be expensive. Can you afford it?
The cage must be kept clean at all times, and the food must always be fresh. This means
time and effort on your part. Do you have the time?
A guinea pig needs
someone to “talk” to and something to do, so that it does not lead a dull life.
Can you be a friend?
When you let the guinea pig out in your home to exercise, it may chew on your furniture
and wallpaper, shed on your carpet, and leave behind little puddles or pellets. It needs
supervision and if it happens, can you be tolerant?
If you give the guinea pig to your child, you should feel jointly responsible for it. Can you do this?
Keep in mind that someone will have to take care of your guinea pig while you are on vacation. Can you find a pet-sitter?
If the guinea pig gets sick, you have to take it to the veterinarian. Treatment may be expensive and you need to make sure that there is a qualified vet in your area. Can you afford a vet?
If you already have other pets, they might not get along with a guinea pig. Can you put the guinea pig in a place that is safe from other pets as well as still feel like part of the family?
Before acquiring a guinea pig, make sure that no one in your family is allergic to it. Have you checked?
Do you feel that you
would make a great mother/father, companion and friend to your guinea pig? Alright! Lets
talk about what the guinea pig will need. You should get these items together before you
bring your guinea pig home.
Cage: A cage can be expensive if it is store bought. A cavy needs a good-sized cage. I
recommend a cage that is 2'x2' feet for one cavy, provided that they will have plenty of
"floor play time", meaning that you will be taking the cavy out to play
everyday. A store bought cage of this size can cost as little as $50 and as much as $80.
Personally, I recommend making your own cavy cage. I have provided information how how to
make a cavy cage without any tools for as little as $25! It is easy enough for a 10 year
old to make - perhaps even someone younger! A water bottle will cost you about $2.75 for a
16 ounce bottle. A 5" food dish will cost about $5. Click here to learn how to make your own cavy
cage, water bottle and food dish.
Guinea Pig Food:
Guinea pigs will need the "Pelleted", Vitamin C Enriched" guinea pig food.
A five pound bag will run you about $5.
Timothy Hay & Hay Rack: This should be the guinea pig's daily bread. A guinea pig
should always have a fresh supply of timothy hay in their cage. Timothy hay aids a cavy's
digestive system. This hay will cost you about $2.50 per package. A hay rack is needed to
keep the hay off the floor of the cage. As with all forms of hay, Timothy Hay will mold if
left on the bottom of the cage where there is urine. Should a guinea pig eat this moldy
hay, it could die. A hay rack hangs from the side of a cage and will cost about $5.
Wood-Chews: wood-chews are needed to keep your cavy's ever-growing teeth trimmed. This is a necessity!
Bedding: NEVER buy CEDAR bedding! This will promote urinary tract & upper respiratory infections. There has been controversy about Pine bedding as to whether or not it is harmful to cavies. In my experience, I have never had a problem with pine bedding. Pine bedding will cost about $7 for a very large bag. The best bedding is Aspen bedding. This will run you $8 for a small bag. The next two best beddings are Carefresh and Yesterdays News. These will also cost around $6 to $8 for a small bag.
Vegetables: Vitamin
C enriched vegetables are a must! Spinach, Carrots, Parsley, etc. are great forms of
vitamin C for your guinea pig. Without vitamin C your cavy will get scurvy and die!
Guinea pigs love to have a place to go and hide so a Hide-a-way is another thing you
should have! You can use a clay pot turned on its side for this (which will aid in nail
trimming). Pet stores also sell caves made out of tree logs that work well as the guinea
pig will chew on the bark (this is not meant as a substitute for wood chews). I do not
recommend using plastic boxes or cardboard boxes as a hide-a-way. The plastic could
contain poisons and the cardboard boxes are breeding grounds for bacteria should urine get
on it. You may not want to get a hide-a-way for your cavy until it has gotten used to you.
Since cavies love to hide, it will spend more time in its hide-a-way than it will paying
attention to you. It will also view you as a threat in the beginning and will run into its
hiding place. By eliminating the hide-a-way when you first get your cavy, you are forcing
the guinea pig to get to know you.
Toys: Toys such as cat balls with the bell removed, small stuffed animals, wood chews, etc. will give your guinea pigs (and you) hours of entertainment as they pick up the object in its mouth and prance around the cage with it.
Plan on spending at least $100 on supplies alone for your guinea pig. All of the above (except for the Hide-a-way and the toys) are MUSTS for your guinea pig! You guinea pig cannot live happily and healthily without these things.
Quick Symptom Finder
Are your cavy's symptom(s) not listed here? E-mail me and I will find the answer for you or direct you to someone who can help you!
Sneezing
Sniffling, Wheezing, Runny Nose, Etc.
Blood in Urine
Diarrhea
Scratching
Trouble Walking, Stiff Joints, Stumbling
Loss of Appetite
Drooling, Not Eating, Quick Weight Loss
Symptoms and Probable Diagnosis
Sneezing Some sneezing is completely normal. However, if your cavy is sneezing all the time or is sneezing a lot with a combination of other symptoms (see below), the cavy may have a bacterial infection or other illness and needs to see a vet.
Sniffling, Wheezing,
Constant Runny Nose, Etc. The guinea pig probably has a bacterial infection. Separate him
or her from any other cavies you might have so that they do not contract what your sick
cavy has. If it doesn't clear up on its own in a day or two, take it to the vet. These
symptoms could be an indication of Pneumonia or Vitamin C deficiency - both can be lethal
and must be taken care of immediately. If you cannot get to a vet right away, go to your
local pet store and buy a small bottle of vitamin C drops. Administer it to them through
their water bottle. If Vitamin C drops are not available, take a 100mg tablet of Vitamin C
and cut it in half. Ground up half of the pill with a mortar and pestal or by squishing it
in between 2 spoons. Put the powdered vitamin C in the guinea pigs water and shake
well.
Blood in Urine This is a symptom that could indicate a urine infection or a number of
other diseases. Take your cavy to the vet ASAP!
Diarrhea A new vegetable or an unusually large amount of veggies that has been introduced
to the cavy's diet may be the cause. Try to cut back on the vegetables for a day to see if
it clears up. If it still has diarrhea the next day, get it to the vet. Cavies dehydrate
quickly. If your cavy has been taking an antibiotic, the problem may be enteritis, which
just means that the antibiotic is killing off the digestive bacteria in the stomach. In
that case, give the cavy a supplement of lactobacillus acidophilus (found in health food
stores) or live culture yogurt along with plenty of water. Do not feed the cavy too much
yogurt as they can be lactose intolerant. Also administer Pedialite (a toddler drink) to
your cavy. Pedialite can be found in all food stores. Pedialite has electrolytes which
both prevents and aids in stopping dehydration. You can either put the pedialite in with
the cavy's water or administer it straight through a needle-less syringe. In a day if the
cavy is still showing the same symptoms or if the symptoms worsen, get it to the
vet.
Scratching Some scratching is completely normal. However, if the places being scratched are becoming raw or sore, or you see notable loss of hair in the area, your cavy may have a parasite such as mites, fungus, or ringworm. Take the cavy to a vet. If your cavy is kept on pine or cedar bedding, he may be scratching because he is allergic to the bedding. Try Aspen bedding or such beddings as Carefresh and Yesterday's News.
Trouble Walking (Stiff Joints, stumbling) This could be an indication of scurvy or Vitamin C deficiency. Get your cavy to a vet right away, it may need a Vitamin C shot. If you cannot get your cavy to a vet quickly, go to your local pet store and buy a bottle of vitamin C drops and mix well with water in the water bottle. If Vitamin C drops are not available, see above for instructions on what you can do. Also feed it some vitamin C enriched foods such as spinach, carrots, etc.
Loss of appetite See
your vet immediately. Most small animals eat constantly due to their metabolism, for them
to lose interest in food is abnormal and should be taken care of right away.
Drooling and/or not eating and weight loss If your guinea pig is displaying these
symptoms, get it to the vet ASAP! This is a probable indication that their teeth are too
long. If this is the case you may need to have their teeth trimmed. If their front teeth
seem normal size, their molars may be too long. You will need to take the cavy to the vet.
A cavy's teeth will grow its entire life and if not taken care of they will prevent the
cavy from eating, drinking, and closing its mouth. Eventually it will starve to death.
Please take care of this immediately!
Thank you Ms. Ivy
D'Vine for providing all of
this wonderful Guinea Pig Information!!
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