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Keeping Chickens
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The purchase of fowl
is an important decision; you can keep fowl just for the eggs, for beautifying the garden
or just because you like a certain breed.
Fowl will become approximately 5 years old, but there are fowl who will become 9 years
old.
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Work to do:
Once a day you have to feed them. Check their food and water and give them a fistful of corn. And of course pick up the eggs !
Cleaning the
poultry-house: it really depends on the size and the amount of birds you are keeping. From
once a week to once a month this should be done.
A good age for
purchasing a fowl is about 5 months, then they are just before egg-laying time.
There are many
different breeds, each with there own characteristics. See the section on BREEDS
below.
At shows, many of them are on display for you to see.
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Feeding If the fowl are kept
free on the grounds or in the garden they will scratch for their food themselves. The
natural food consists of grain, seeds, berries, certain plants, worms, snails, insects and
such things. If a fowl become too
fat they will stop laying eggs, then you will have to give them less corn. As far as I know there are no electrical heated water cans. However there are people who use a heating which is meant for an aquarium. There is also an other solution, you can put a small defroster in the night-compartment, it should hang from the ceiling and below it is the water. |
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Eggs
When a hen is born, it is already pre-determined how many eggs she will lay.
It depends on a number of factors whether this will happen or not though; health and feeding, but it is also important to take very good care of their "home" by keeping it a clean and healthy environment.
The number of hour's
daylight is also involved, therefore in spring the hens will lay more eggs than during the
winter months. You can create more light hours in the winter and then the hen will lay
eggs very well that way.
From 5 months on a hen will lay eggs.
(it should be noted though, that Bantams lay smaller eggs).
The number of eggs
each week is dependent upon the breed. The average fowl is a good "layer" 1-5
years but each year less and less.
There's no
difference in taste between a fertilized or a non-fertilized egg. Both can be eaten
without any danger. But don't eat eggs which have been hatched (where a hen has been
sitting on them for a while).
It's wise to pick up the eggs every day or else the chickens will start to pick the eggs
and when they've tasted it, it's hard to get an egg for yourself.
If you have this
problem, try blowing out an egg and carefully filled it with mustard. Then put the egg
back. After that the the chickens shouldn't want to pick eggs anymore.
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Color of the eggs
Oddly enough, the color of the eggs appears to be related to the color of the Chicken's ears. Hence, a Chicken with a white ears will produce white eggs and one with red ears, brown one's.
Egg color varies goes from white to a dark-brown. One exception to that is the Araucana (South-America). This chicken lays white, blue, green, and pinkish brown eggs!
The color of the egg is dependent on the breed, the color of the chicken doesn't matter.
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Problems with eggs
Egg shell too soft:
Caused by a lack of necessary calcium.
Give the chicken some pebbles and crushed shells.
Another reason for this may be a sudden shock of some sort.
Wind-eggs: This this occurs when young hens start
laying eggs.
Another cause can also be a lack of calcium. Give them some store-bought calcium (specifically made for this
purpose). You can also add it to their diet and try some crushed shells as
well.
Double-yolk: This problem is usually observed in hens
that are in there second laying season. Nothing is wrong with these eggs, in fact
some folks really enjoy them!.
Eggs that are blood strewn:
The blood that is seen is coming from
the ovary and will be absorbed into the white of egg. This can be hereditary. There
is nothing wrong with these eggs.
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Eggs used for hatching
An egg can still be hatched up to the tenth day after it has been layed, so you can save them for a while . Keep them in a fairly cold (10 till 15 degrees Celsius) and dry place and rotate them daily.
Do not clean your eggs with water. When you do this, you may remove a coating which is bacterial preventive. If you wish to clean the eggs, you can take the dirt off very carefully with a small knife.
Always mark the eggs
with a lead-pencil, never a ballpoint or felt marking pen because the chemicals can go
right through the egg-shell.
If it is necessary to move the eggs, wrap each one carefully. After moving
them, the eggs need some rest for 24 hours with no warmth.
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Artificial hatch
If you want to hatch the eggs artificially you need an incubator or else it won't work.
Read the manual
carefully and follow the directions.
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Natural hatch
Let your hen hatch some eggs, that's the easy way, just sprinkle the eggs with some water now and then and there's nothing more to do.
Place the hen in a separate compartment so she won't be disturbed and will stay brooding all the time.
The nests need some special attention: first you need a piece of lawn, turn it upside-down, cover it with some hay and make a little hole for the eggs.
Let the hen rest, feed her with mixed grain and also she needs some fresh water. Don't feed them with the normal food, now she won't lay any "new" eggs and also she has less stools which prevents the nest and the eggs from getting dirty.
Once a while the hen will leave the nest to feed and relieve herself, that won't harm the eggs and it's certainly necessary for the hen.
The amount of eggs a
hen can hatch depends on the size of the chicken. A big hen can easily hatch 12 eggs and a
bantam 7-9 eggs.
Hatching will take approximately 21 day's (artificial and natural).
From day 18 you can sprinkle the eggs with some lukewarm water once a day, it will help the little chicks coming out of the eggs.
After day 22 don't
expect any chickens from the eggs, just throw them away (don't eat them anymore !).
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Little chickens
Little chickens need warmth in their first weeks which they can find beneath the hen. You can also use a heating lamp (use a red one).
With the height of
the lamp you can regulate the temperature. The first week you need a temperature of 35
degrees Celsius, every week down with 2 degrees till you reach 25 degrees Celsius and the
little chicken have enough feathers. Then gradual remove the heating in one week.
The first 48 hours they don't require food or water. After those hours the little chicks
need special breed-food, and water in a shallow tray. When they are 16 weeks you can give
them the normal food.
After 6 weeks the
chickens don't need the hen anymore, but you must keep them away from the other chickens.
Moulting-time (end of the summer) is the best time to mix the chickens.
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Build your own incubator
You can construct
your own if you wish.
There are a variety of incubators which are shown in some brochures. In those instructions
there are often some diagrams.
You can use these to
build your own own incubator
The incubator should be suitable for 50 large eggs, or 70 bantam eggs. The strength of the
heating element should be about 150 watts.
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Disease
The most important
thing to know is how to prevent it.
Keep the coop and hen-house very clean.
Store the food in a
dry area and make sure no vermin can get at it.
Check your chickens regularly for any disease.
Never hesitate to visit a vet.
A visit to a vet might cost you more than the chicken but perhaps it can save your others.
For problems with eggs or egg-laying look at the part about Eggs on this site.
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Aspergillose
CAUSE: Mold, usually from moldy straw or food.
SYMPTOMS: Rapid breathing, maybe redness in the eye-lids.
TREATMENT: It is
very difficult to treat. "Dispose" of the chicken and disinfect hen-house
thoroughly.
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Bird Tuberculousis
CAUSE: Bacterium. This is often discovered with imported birds which recently have been caught in the wild.
SYMPTOMS: The bird grows thin, exhibits paralysis and swelling of the joints.
TREATMENT: There is
no treatment, just "dispose" of the bird. Disinfect the hen-house and coop
thoroughly and replace the ground.
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Cannibalism and/or Feather picking
CAUSE: The chicken is bored. There is an over-population, the temperature is too high in the pen or it is white light.
SYMPTOMS: Pecking and feather picking.
TREATMENT: Changing
the bird's situation.
Change white light to an infra-red one.
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Coccidiose
CAUSE: A parasite. Damage occurs in the intestine.
SYMPTOMS: Watery and also bloody dung. The chicken grows thin, apathetic.
TREATMENT: The Vet,
he/she will investigate the dung for the diagnosis. The dung is always contagious so be
very careful.
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Cold in chest
CAUSE: Extremes in temperature and also drafts and moisture in the hen-house.
SYMPTOMS: Discharge from the nostrils. Keeping bill wide open most of the time.
TREATMENT: Virusol
Bogena, mix it with the drinking water.
Possibly separating the chicken and keeping it in a warm pen.
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Fowl cholera
CAUSE: Drinking water, earth or food that is contagious.
SYMPTOMS: Continually thirsty, difficult breathing, growing thin, blue comb and lobe's.
TREATMENT: See the Vet. Separate this chicken and disinfect the pen scrupulously.
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Fowl pox
CAUSE: Virus
SYMPTOMS: Black warts on the head area and also around the bill. Yellow moisture gathered in the throat.
TREATMENT: Vet. Also prevention possible.
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Frozen combs and lobes
CAUSE: Very cold.
SYMPTOMS: The combs and lobes are frozen as the name says.
TREATMENT: Oil comb and lobes with a mix of 25 ml. vaseline, 5 ml. glycerine and 5 ml. white spirit. Apply this mixture twice a day.
Preventive: In the winter time, keep oil and lobe's combed with vaseline.
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Lime legs
CAUSE: Mite
SYMPTOMS: Lameness and puffy legs.
TREATMENT: A
combination of petroleum and/or oil.
There are also some very good creams out there, which work rather quickly. Clean out the pen thoroughly.
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Marek's disease
CAUSE: The Herpes
virus
SYMPTOMS: Paralysis, fist making of "toe's" and the leg is stretched either in
back of the bird or in front.
It's possible that the illness only comes months after being exposed to it.
TREATMENT: There is no treatment. Young chickens can only get a vaccination to prevent it.
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Mucus
CAUSE: Bacteria
SYMPTOMS: Lots of sneezing, wet nose area, puffy eye's, difficulty breathing.
Lots of chickens have this disease there's a typical smell in the pen.
TREATMENT:
Antibiotics.
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New Castle Disease NCD
CAUSE: Virus
SYMPTOMS: Green dung, the bird becomes total paralyzed, and will hang it's head.
TREATMENT: There is no treatment, only a precautionary vaccination.
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Red blood mite
CAUSE: Red blood mite.
SYMPTOMS: Jumpiness, especially at night. The chicken suffers a loss of blood.
TREATMENT: Killing of the mite with special spray. For example, bird spray for your house and your animals. Close all the possible hiding places.
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Vermin
CAUSE: Fleas, lice, mostly in the late summer season.
SYMPTOMS: Restlessness, constant picking of the feathers.
TREATMENT: Spray specifically for birds and pen. Check your chickens regularly.
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Worms
CAUSE: There are all different kinds of worms.
SYMPTOMS: Sometimes it can be seen in the dung. Diarrhea, bird grows thin, lameness.
TREATMENT: Anti-worm medicine. Their dung is contagious
so you must clean everything quite thoroughly.
Can be cured with some care.
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Hen Qualities
Barred Rock Good 3 kg - Plenty of charm and they are pretty tame. They require little care. They are hearty in all weather.
Araucana 120 2-3 kg 1,8 kg Fully-bodied and hardy. Do well against winter and moisture. They lay blue eggs.
Jersey Giant 120 5 kg ruim - These are considered part of the group of giant breeds.
New Hampshire 180 3 kg 2-5 kg They can be seen to full advantage on the grounds as well on the coop. Somewhat older fowls are poor layers. Nice animals with a good will and they are tame.
Plymouth Rock 170 4-5 kg - Can be kept in a small coop. They adapt easily to different circumstances.
Rhode Island 200 3-5 kg Calm character. Regardless of their size they can be held in smaller compartments. Excellent egg-laying in summer and winter.
Wyandotte Good 3-5 kg - Quite a calm bird. You can
house them in smaller coops. They lay very well, especially during the winter
months.
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Handy Tips and "Tricks"
Chickens that are really dirty can be bathed with water and baby shampoo. Be sure to dry them well before they are allowed to go out again. Most of the breeders do this before an shows.
If your bird absolutely will not eat, give it some live maggots. due to their movements the bird will start to peck and will soon begin to eat again.
To stop chickens from fighting, spray them with a mix of water and vinegar.
In order to delay your hen's egg-laying, once a while give them some yogurt or buttermilk.
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